Board Report
Anyone new in a surfer's life may find themselves asking, "Why do you need another board?" After all, a surfboard is just a surfboard—a fiberglass plank for riding waves with the biggest difference between them being cosmetic at best, like choosing between slightly different shades of blue, right? WRONG!
If you love your surfer, it’s time to embark on an educational journey that will completely transform your understanding of surf culture and equipment.
The Revelation
Over the past five years, I've had the privilege of listening in on Ricardo's conversations with shapers and fellow surfers. What initially sounded like foreign jargon gradually began to make sense as I observed how thoughtfully surfers select their equipment based on ocean conditions, personal style, and performance goals.
I started to notice how Ricardo would grab a different board depending on the day's forecast. Some mornings he'd choose something short and narrow, while on others, he'd opt for something long and wide. There was a clear method to what I had originally mistaken for madness.
The Foundation: Board Design
As I paid closer attention, I began to grasp the fundamental elements that differentiate one board from another:
Volume: This measurement in liters determines a board's buoyancy and stability. I watched Ricardo calculate precise volume measurements—often seemingly coming down to decimal points—that could make the difference between catching a critical wave or missing it entirely. For beginners like myself, more volume provides necessary stability, while experienced surfers, like Ricardo, can handle less volume for greater maneuverability.
Rails: I was fascinated to learn how the edges of the surfboard dramatically influence wave interaction. Soft, rounded rails forgive mistakes and work well in mushier conditions, while hard, thin rails allow for precise carving on steeper wave faces but punish imprecision.
Fins: Perhaps nothing changed my perspective more than understanding how fin setup transforms a board's character. From single fins offering smooth, drawn-out turns to thruster setups providing drive and stability, to quad fins delivering speed and looseness—even minor adjustments in fin placement can completely alter a board's performance characteristics.
The Essential Quiver: Each Board Has Its Purpose
As Ricardo patiently explained his collection, I began to see each board not as an unnecessary duplicate but as a specialized tool:
Shortboards (5'6" to 6'4"): With their low volume, narrow outlines, pronounced rocker, and thruster fin setups, these boards are designed for performance surfing in quality waves. I was amazed to learn that even an inch difference in length or a liter variance in volume can transform a shortboard from perfect to unrideable.
Longboards (9'0" and up): I've grown to appreciate how the longboard embodies traditional surfing excellence. With significant volume, minimal rocker, and typically a single fin, these boards excel in small, mushy conditions—waves I initially thought were unsurfable.
Guns (7'0" to 11'0"): When facing nature at its most powerful, the gun becomes essential. Designed with additional length, narrower outlines, and specialized rocker profiles, guns provide the speed and stability needed for bigger waves. The step-up board (typically 6'6" to 7'6") serves as the intermediate option for waves just beyond shortboard range.
Stand-Up Paddleboards (SUP): I've watched as the SUP has come to represent adaptability in its ultimate form—allowing wave riding in virtually any condition. Their extraordinary volume and stability come with tradeoffs in maneuverability, but modern performance SUPs incorporate design elements from shortboards to enable increasingly technical surfing.
Foil Boards: I've been fascinated by how foil surfing represents the cutting edge of performance innovation. The hydrofoil wing generates lift, allowing surfers to ride waves previously considered unsurfable and maintain speed through flat sections.
Tow Boards: When waves reach truly extraordinary heights, the tow board comes into play. These short, heavy, foot-strapped boards enable surfers to be pulled into waves by watercraft that would be impossible to paddle into conventionally.
The APEX of Performance: Building a Thoughtful Quiver
What to the naked eye could be perceived as an excessive collection is actually a very thoughtful curation based on four principles of an APEX Quiver :
Adaptability: Each board serves a specific purpose, with intentional overlap to ensure no condition leaves you unprepared.
Precision: Understanding how subtle design variations affect performance allows for tailored equipment choices that maximize potential in any given condition.
Expertise: Developing knowledge of how body type, skill level, and surfing style interact with different board designs transforms equipment selection from guesswork to strategy.
Excellence: The ultimate goal—a quiver that enables personal best performance across the entire spectrum of surfable conditions.
A New Appreciation
Now when Ricardo mentions adding a new board to his quiver, I understand it's not about accumulation but refinement. What appears to the uninitiated as minor variations—a quarter-inch in rail thickness, two degrees of fin cant, or a subtle shift in outline curve—can fundamentally transform how a board interacts with the wave.
I've come to see that a surfer's quiver is not just a collection of boards but a physical manifestation of their relationship with the ocean. It reflects not only the conditions they surf but who they are as a surfer—their strengths, preferences, aspirations, and the unique physical dialogue they've developed with the water.
The next time you see a surfer with multiple boards strapped to their car roof, remember: they're not being excessive—they're being prepared. And in the unpredictable world of ocean conditions, preparation is everything.